Jewelry & Metal Arts
- Foldforming
- PMC
- Dial Height Gauge
- Wire Wrapping
- Chasing and Repousse
- Enameling on Copper
- Cutting and Forming Copper Sheet Metal
Foldforming
Foldforming Tools
Foldforming is a metalworking technique developed by Charles Lewton-Brain, known for creating three-dimensional forms through a combination of folding, forging, annealing, and unfolding metal sheets.
🛠️ Essential Tools for Foldforming:
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Cross-peen Hammer
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Forging Hammers
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Anvil or Steel Bench Block
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Torch (for annealing metal)
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Jeweler’s Pliers & Tongs
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Pickle Pot & Safety Equipment (gloves, glasses, etc.)
Foldforming Resources
Foldforming is a metalworking technique developed by Charles Lewton-Brain, known for creating three-dimensional forms through a combination of folding, forging, annealing, and unfolding metal sheets.
📚Books and videos
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Foldforming by Charles Lewton-Brain (definitive book, considered essential)
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Metals Technic by Tim McCreight
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Contains a chapter on foldforming by Charles Lewton-Brain, alongside other metalsmithing techniques.
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Rio Grande’s Foldforming Videos
- Ganoksin (The Orchid Forum)
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Charles Lewton-Brain Official YouTube Channel
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Brain Press (Charles Lewton-Brain’s Official Website)
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Articles, resources, and book sales:
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Interweave Jewelry
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Tutorials and project ideas for beginners and advanced artisans:
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PMC
PMC Precious Metal Clay
Requires very clean workspace and toolkits.
Due to the expense of working with Precious Metals - Bronze or copper clay is recommended for starter projects.
Dial Height Gauge
A dial height gauge is used in metalworking and precision machining to measure vertical distances from a reference surface—typically a surface plate, which is the large, heavy, flat round metal plate it's standing on in the photo.
Primary purposes of the dial height gauge:
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Measuring Height: It measures the height of objects or features with high accuracy.
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Scribing lines: When fitted with a scribe or scriber instead of a dial probe, it can mark precise horizontal lines on a workpiece.
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Comparative Measurement: It can compare the height of different parts or features to ensure uniformity.
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Precision Layout Work: Common in tool and die making, it helps in laying out precision measurements on metal surfaces.
The dial indicator on it allows for highly accurate readings and can detect very small differences in height.
Wire Wrapping
Chasing and Repousse
Chasing and Repousse Tools
Pitch Pots
Repousse
Chasing
Needs Safety training
Enameling on Copper
Torch Fired Annealing on Copper
Kiln Fired annealing on Copper
Cutting and Forming Copper Sheet Metal
Cutting and forming sheet metal can be done with shears, Disk Cutting tools are for cutting and forming copper Sheet Metal and are often used in jewelry and small metalwork.
Here's a breakdown of how to use some of them on copper sheet metal:
Burrlife or Beeswax for lubrication of cutting surface
Steel Block as work surface, not wood.
Heavy Brass Mallet
Disk Cutters, Bevelled end up - the cutting side of the punch is a flat smooth surface.
1. Disk Cutter (circular tool with round holes)
This is used to punch out perfect circles of metal.
Steps to use:
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Anneal your copper (heat it to a dull red and let it air cool or quench in water if it's safe—wear gloves).
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Place your copper sheet between the plates of the disk cutter.
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Select the punch size that fits the hole.
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Align the sheet so the desired area is under the hole.
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Insert the corresponding punch into the hole.
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Use a heavy brass mallet or an arbor press to strike the bevelled end of the punch. It will shear the metal and drop a disk through the bottom
🛠️ Proper Usage Tips
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Insert the Punch Correctly: Always insert the flat, sharp end of the punch into the corresponding hole of the disc cutter, ensuring it makes direct contact with the metal sheet.
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Strike the Beveled End: Use a heavy mallet or hammer to strike the beveled end of the punch. This will drive the sharp end through the metal, creating a clean cut.
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Avoid Reversing the Punch: Striking the sharp cutting end can damage both the punch and the disc cutter, leading to poor cuts and potential injury.
Quick Reference: Using Disk Cutters on Copper
✅ Anneal copper before cutting (heat to dull red, then cool).
✅ Use a heavy mallet or arbor press for clean punches.
✅ Lubricate punch tips with Bur Life or beeswax.
✅ Always place cutter on a steel block, not wood.
✅ Align copper and punch carefully—no tilt.
✅ Check punch sharpness regularly.
✅ Use correct gauge copper (20–24 gauge ideal).
✅ Remove stuck punches gently by flipping and tapping.
Disk Cutter Troubleshooting Guide
Issue
Cause
Solution
Cutter won't pierce copper
Copper is too hard (work-hardened)
Anneal the copper before cutting
Punch doesn't go through
Not enough force used
Use a brass/rawhide mallet or an arbor press
Punch gets stuck
No lubrication / tight fit
Lubricate punch with Bur Life or beeswax
Ragged or uneven cuts
Copper or punch misaligned
Ensure copper is flat and punch is vertical
Noisy, ineffective cut
Cutter not on solid surface
Place on a steel bench block or anvil
Won't cut thicker sheet
Gauge is too high for tool
Use thinner copper or alternative tools
Punch not sharp
Edge dull or damaged
Sharpen or replace punch
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